The iconic floating lanterns of Yi Peng in Northern Thailand are on many, many people’s dream bucketlists. So, back in Bangkok after a fantastic month in Myanmar, my next planned stop was Chiang Mai for this festival which fell November 13-15 of this year (it falls on the full moon, so varies from year to year).
However, since the King had passed away last month, there was a lot of confusion as to whether the festivals would be celebrated or cancelled. Finally, we got word that they were officially still on, although of course, in a subdued way in respect to the King. So then I needed to find last minute transport up north. The overnight train was my first choice, but are a very popular choice so were totally sold out. Flights were crazy expensive so that left me with the overnight bus option. After going all around town visiting travel agencies (IN PERSON) I was finally able to find a seat on an overnight bus.
After an incredibly exciting incident where I lost my iPhone in Hua Lumphong and had a crazed couple of hours finding it, I *just* made it to the bus and was finally off to Chiang Mai. I had been confident after all the overnight busses I’d done in in Myanmar that I’d sleep well. Especially after all that adrenaline pumped through my systemBUT the big difference is that the roads in Thailand have a LOT of stops. And I naturally wake up whenever I’m in a moving vehicle and it stops, so it was a fitful night. But I finally arrived, checked into The Green Tiger Guesthouse and was able to take a nap before heading out for the evening’s festivities.
Loy Krathong
As if the magic of floating lanterns isn’t enough, the Yi Peng Festival falls at the same time as the Loy Krathong Festival. Loy Krathong are little boats which are floated down the river with incense / candles. Traditionally they are made of a floating palm base and decorated with leaves and flowers. However, there are plenty of updated versions – many of which try to put an eco spin on it since the old style often contain styrofoam and staples. Unlike Yi Peng, Loy Krathong is celebrated all over Thailand, so any body of water – rivers or ponds will be full of Krathongs.
The first night of the festival I chose one of these “feed the fish” options with a loaf of psychadelic, tie-die bread stuffed with flowers and incense, while on the second night I opted for a slightly more traditional plant-based option. Along with their hopes and intentions, people often put money in their Krathongs, so what is not pictured, but witnessed by yours truly, were the people camped out downstream catching and pillaging.
Parade
What I didn’t know is that there is also a parade with floats. I loved how elaborate they were and they were all accompanied by Thai people of all ages in traditional style clothing. Most of the floats of course were tributes to the late King.
Yi Peng
OK, ok, ok – the floating lanterns. Let’s be real, that’s what you’re here for.
Wat Phan Tao
I have very mixed feelings about using this amazing picture of the monks floating lanterns. Because it’s a highly staged photo op of young child monks that have lanterns with strings on them that they let up a few feet pull down and repeat all night. This gets into icky tourist, human-zoo territory. However, one of my favorite photos is of this family lighting candles which was definitely a genuine moment.
Candles & Lanterns
Now if lanterns in the sky and river aren’t enough, the entire town is decorated: the moat, the wats (temples), and the 3 Kings Monument were chock full of candles and lanterns. It was totally magical to wander around.
Market
On my way back to my guesthouse, I walked through the market which even after 2+ years in Thailand the vibrant sights and sounds still delight me.
